![]() Seek help from a local repair shop, for brackets, moving stuff and the like. If you're a novice at this sort of thing, you could get in over your head with all the hookups. Drill from the outside, for the bracket bolts and arrange for controls (steering, throttle, shift, etc.). Once everything is dry, seal the plywood with straight epoxy and put the seat back together. Bond this to the inside of the transom with thickened epoxy (no Liquid Nails doesn't cut it). Cut a piece of exterior grade (not exposure 1, but true exterior) to fit as large a area as the space will permit. Once you remove the starboard seat and gain access to the transom, grind it clean with a 40 grit DA or whatever you have, insuring you have good "tooth" and the surface is well roughed up. 6 MPH will be about right for reasonable economy and engine wear. Fisherman typically use a kicker instead of their main motor when they want to troll for fish at slower speeds while boaters with larger rigs who run farther offshore like to have them as a back up in. Auxiliary motors or kicker motors as they are commonly called, are used for a few different reasons. Of course a 25 HP outboard isn't going to push this boat very fast, maybe 8 MPH will be about it and she'll be working pretty hard at this speed. KICKER MOTORS AND SOME THINGS TO CONSIDER. Lowrance Elite FS, HDS Gen3, Carbon and LIVE fish finders can also control certain trolling motors. There's two basic outboard brackets - a small one, designed for up to 15 HP kickers and often seen on sailboats and a second, heavier duty bracket, which can handle intermittent 25 HP use. Auto Steer the Trolling Motor Focus on your next cast instead of the trolling motor. You'll lose the boarding ladder, though it could be swapped to the port side, with some minor modifications. When you want to run the big motor, the switch should be on 1. Connect the negatives of both engines to the negative terminal on the battery. Connect the positive lead of the small motor to terminal 2. Connect the positive lead of the big motor to terminal 1. I'd recommend the outboard bracket on the starboard side, as there's less stuff in the way, compared to the port side, where the drive trim pump and hoses live. Connect the battery positive lead to the common terminal on the switch. This assumes you don't have the lounge deck option, which makes access even more difficult. 3/4" will do, but make it as big as you can fit, inside the port or starboard aft seat area. As Stan has mentioned, you will need to reinforce the inside of the transom skin with some plywood. The deck cap shape makes access to an outboard difficult at best, but a heavy duty adjustable outboard bracket is possible. This is the typical engine cover (there are several styles) and straddling seats. This is the transom of a Capri, obviously without the drive. I'm familiar with the Bayliner Capri 19, I've worked on quite a few.
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